Fashions impact on climate change

It’s no secret at Paua HQ that I wear an aviator hat and I can often be marvelling at aluminium and carbon fibre in the sky, nearly as often as I am excited about carbon reduction on the ground. I am passionate about travel and my aviation interests, with all the remarkable opportunities for connecting people, organisations, business, trade, and wider economies that it brings. Not to mention the immeasurable benefit that travel can impart on an individual’s personal outlook; from expanding the mind to enhancing cultural awareness.

Nevertheless, I would be the first to admit that aviation is an obvious target for ‘carbon criticism’. You only need to look up into the sky on a clear day to see contrails criss-crossing the horizon, leading to the immediate thought that if we all stopped flying, the planet will be spared an untimely and certain demise.

However, a statistic jumped out at me the other day that not only stuck with me because of its poignancy, but also the stark reality of its implications on the livelihoods, welfare, behaviours, and mindset of a vast number of the developed and developing world. As repeated so many times by climate activists, only a very small percentage of the world’s population has ever set foot on an aeroplane. Yet, how many people in this world wear a t-shirt?

That’s right, the fashion industry. We are very quick to cite the damage caused by aviation, yet the World Bank highlights.

“The fashion industry is responsible for 10 % of annual global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. At this pace, the fashion industry’s greenhouse gas emissions will surge more than 50 % by 2030.”

The damage caused by the fashion industry is not solely linked to carbon emissions either. In almost every direction, it adversely impacts on the environment. From the extreme water usage (“93 billion cubic meters of water a year”, or “3,781 liters [sp] of water to make a pair of jeans”, according to the United Nations Environment Programme); to 87% of all clothing fibres in manufacturing ending up in landfill; or its contribution to the increasingly concerning microplastic ‘epidemic’ whereby every year a half a million tons of plastic microfibers are dumped into the ocean, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles. As one of the least environmentally sustainable industries, the fashion sector accounts for approximately 2.1 billion tonnes of CO2-e emissions per year — (4% of annual global emissions with over 70% from production processes - the remainder from retail, logistics and product use (such as washing and drying), according to McKinsey’s annual fashion report, ‘The State of Fashion, 2022).

A factor exacerbating the issue is the increase in pace at which the fashion industry operating model applies to design and production. Gone are the days of seasonal launches; brands are constantly bringing new lines to market, feeding into the consumer demand for ‘the latest trend’ or ‘style’. In addition, the rise of low-cost clothing stores has transformed the way consumers perceive an item of clothing.

For example, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation point out that in 2000, 50 billion new garments were made; fast forward to 20 years on and that figure has doubled. This has led to a 60% increase in the amount of clothing the average person today buys when compared to the year 2000. A consequence of this is a dramatic rise in the number of clothing items discarded.

In fact, Elena Pappas of EU Research and Innovation publication ‘Horizon’ states that less than “1 % of used clothing is recycled into new garments”. This stark disparity in consumers recycling clothing vs discarding has led to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimating that every year approximately $500 billion is lost “due to clothing that is barely worn, not donated, recycled, or ends up in a landfill”.

Despite the hugely adverse impact the fashion industry has on the environment, it remains key for economic development and is expected to exceed a total value of $1.7bn globally, employing 75 million people throughout its value chain.  It is the world’s third-largest manufacturing sector after the automobile and technology industries, according to data from the World Bank. As a result, whilst radical intervention is necessary to prevent future damage to the environment, it is also pertinent to manage this transition in a sensitive way.

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The challenge for clothing producers is to grow in a sustainable way, which means working with the environment, rather than at its detriment. Combined with promoting better conditions for workers in the sector, there is a possible path to a brighter future.

All stakeholders must be part of this journey, from designers to manufacturers, critics, and consumers. The latter really need to demand positive change from the industry, and vote with their wallet or purse, calling upon businesses to adopt more sustainable practices and championing those who do so. Being aware of what you buy is key, but the World Bank also list some key steps we can all take:

• Before buying, ask if the manufacturers used sustainable criteria to make the clothing.
• Be creative in combining garments and recycle them after they wear out.
• Repair clothing.
• Donate what you no longer use.
• Buy only what you need. In some countries, 40 % of purchased clothing is never used.
• Consider quality over quantity. Every additional year a garment is worn means less pollution. Cheap clothing often doesn't survive the wash cycle, meaning that in the long run you don’t save money compared with buying better quality garments?
• Buy second-hand clothing.
• Be a smart laundry manager — wash full loads and use non-abrasive detergents, for example.

So next time you decide your wardrobe needs a change, first think about the impact this might have on the environment and whether your buying approach needs to change first.

And if you’re quick to criticise someone for taking a flight or call out your neighbour for filling up their car with petrol, take a look at that shirt or blouse you just purchased. Before you point the finger of blame at their latest travel plans, it might be better to check the environmental credentials of your new pair of shoes!

Words by Steven Currie

Head of Commercial, Paua

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